Building a hardtail mountain bike (WiP)

Most of the time when I go on a bike ride I ride off road on trails and sometimes even on downhill tracks. For that purpose i found a bike which fits me perfectly and is a lot of fun to drive: the Yeti SB5.5. I absolutely love it. It is a very heavy and big machine though and just to expensive to use a “drive everywhere” daily business bike so i decided to build up a hardtail mtb i can use for light trails, driving to work and longer tours. This will not be a detailed post. just a small build log.

Finding the right parts

Big spreadsheet of possible parts and combinations with specs, comments and url’s.

I started with looking for a frame which fits my needs in geometry and style. There are a lot of different options and i settled on a Dartmoor Primal 29 from a small but very good looking Polish company. After choosing the frame i narrowed down the options of the rest of the parts. A lot of things depend on the frame, eg. headtube size for the fork or wheel size. After all i got these main parts:
– Dartmoor Primal 29 XL frame
– FOX Float 34 Rythm 130mm Fork
– Shimano SLX 1×11 gearset
– Shimano Deore breaks with 160mm back and 180 mm front discs
– Falcrum Red Zone 7 wheels Tubeless with Schwalbe Nobby Nic and Racing Ralph tires
– KCNC IS42/28,6 – IS52/40 headset with Race Face XC stem

build

I started with the front of the bike. Fitting the headset in was really easy because IS headsets do not need to be pressed in. Just put in the bearings, add the crown to the fork, put everything in and retain it with the stem.

After that i installed the breaks which was, also, pretty easy. Just add the adapters to the mounts (for the right break disc size and mount type), screw it together and that’s it.

more tbd.

The Keyboard collection

  • IBM Model M
  • Filco TKL Cream
    – Switches: Cherry MX Blue
    – Keycaps: Standard
  • Vortex Pok3r 60% White
    – Switches: Cherry MX Brown + O-Rings
    – Keycaps: Signature Plastics DSA
  • Self build GH60
    – Switches: Gateron MX Blue
    – Keycaps: Tai-Hao Miami
  • Ducky Shine 2 TKL
    – Switches: Cherry MX Red
    – Keycaps: Standard

Weather Station with Arduino

I wanted to do this since a long time and finally i did it, i built a small and simple weather station. It uses an Arduino Uno with Ethernet-Shield, a DS18B20-Sensor for the indoor temperature and a Adafruit HTU21D-F for outdoor humidity and temperature and sends the measurements via http to a php script which writes them in a .json file.

As a enclosure i printed this awesome Radiation Shield in ABS and coated it with some epoxidy to make it more durable.img_2749

Code and detailed instructions avaibale at GitHub.

The Lulzbot Mini 3D-Printer

So.. i got a third printer. Not that i needed one but i wanted one. Something small but powerful with the ability to print any material. After some research i found the Lulzbot Mini and immediately fell in love. Not only can he do all i want, he even has automatic bed leveling and is completely open source. Not only the software also all the specs for the hardware are available and licensed under GPLv3/CCBYSA4.0.

img_2560

The Lulzbot Mini, printing a tool holder for itself.

The detail of engineering is amazing. The autolevel functions with the nozzle and the metal-pads on the side, when they touch, a circuits closes. To make sure it can touch, the nozzle gets cleaned before leveling on a small pad at the back of the bed. There are holes in the top and the side of the metal case to mount cameras and RaspberryPi’s, you get a lot of tools with it, there is a handle to carry it around, the filament holder can be flipped down.. everything about this printer feels really well thought through.
The Mini has no display, but that’s no problem, at least for me, since i’m using OctoPrint anyway.
I can only recommend this printer for everyone who wants a easy but awesome printing experience.
One thing I didn’t like: the printer is really loud. I measured it with my iPhone (not really accurate i guess) and came to 70-80dB which is as loud as a loud conversation. But there is an easy fix, install a damper on the Y-Axis-Driver. There is a Open Hardware Assembly Instruction available from Lulzbot. This damped it down to about 60dB (as loud as a normal conversation) but feels like at least half as loud.

My Setup

All the mods installed.

All the mods installed.